Butcher Block Countertops

There are two alternative finishes which can be applied to butcher block countertops. The mineral oil quit is the one used for cutting surfaces. The oil conditions the wood so that it won't dry out, warp, or crack. Every time you wash the countertop you will remove some of the oil. Therefore, you should re-apply this non-toxic material every 6 weeks or so.

Mineral oil is not waterproof, so if the top gets wet, the grain could raise, making the wood feel rough. So having sinks in butcher block countertops is not a good idea. The area around the sink will at last discolor, turning dark. Cut marks from knives are unmistakably sanded out, but then you should re-oil.

Another quit used on wood countertops is the "varnique" finish. This is a baked on satin polyurethane finish. It is safe for palpate with Food, and it has a low sheen, which most folks are happy with.

You shouldn't cut on butcher block countertops with this quit because cutting will remove the protection, leaving the wood exposed to water and other household liquids. It is extremely difficult to fix cuts in this quit so that you won't notice them.

However, if you're not cutting on this finish, the benefit is that it is virtually carefree. It's waterproof, so you can have a sink cut out in it. And you can spill grape juice of red wine on it, wipe it away, and not have a stain.

In kitchens that consolidate stone and butcher block countertops, homeowners usually want to do some cutting on the wood surface, so they want the oil finish. If you only want it for looks, then go with the varnique.

Several clubs offer butcher block countertops in many wood species, at distinct price points. Hard maple (also known as sugar maple) is the best option for cutting because it has the tightest grain and is the hardest of the acceptable woods. Lower grades of maple include: western maple, soft maple, and Chinese maple. These are all soft woods and they're not good surfaces that will take a lot of abuse.

Cherry and walnut are softer than hard maple, but very pretty and more expensive. Red oak is a very rough and grainy option, but is one of the least high-priced choices for wood countertops.

It might appear that some clubs are practically giving away their butcher block countertops. This is because they finger joint random scraps of anyone wood they have and call it a butcher block.

Mixed finger-jointed woods can have serious issues in time and you should stay away from them. So don't be like most habitancy who just look at the price.

Thickness is someone else notice when buying butcher block. The acceptable is 1 1/2" - any thinner than that is not a good idea. This thickness if fine up to 42" in length. Once you get longer, you should go to 1 3/4" to forestall warping in the future.

Any thicker is not significant under any circumstances, but some habitancy just like the look of thicker tops. If this is you, think about getting a 1 3/4" top and building up the edge. This will probably save you a lot of money.

At 2 1/4" thick (which is the next acceptable after 1 3/4") the price doubles, and can nearly triple at 3" thick. There is no price per quadrate foot for butcher block countertops, so don't even ask. Have your size, shape, wood species, thickness, quit and cutouts ready for a quote. You have to price each piece because all those eleMents influence the price.

Good luck.

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